By All Means, Bill Clinton!

From September 2002 trip to Ghana

I have been away for over 3 weeks now, and some of you may be wondering...what happened to
Andrew?  Did he get caught up in the fighting in Cote D’Ivoire?  Or did he sink in the ferry off the coast of Senegal?  Well, obviously not.  Here are some reflections from Ghana...
 

Before I started this job, I was very ignorant about Africa.  I used to think that because everyone in Africa had dark skin, that meant that their culture was all the same.  Of course, the thought seems silly to me now, but I think people from other countries fail to realize just how poorly our American educational system teaches us about the world outside the U.S. border (and the fact that I managed to avoid doing my ethnic studies requirement at the University of Wisconsin did not help me either).  But my eyes have been opened by traveling with the IMF, and I now know that Africa is a freaking huge continent (and due to distorted projections of world maps for the last 200 years, it’s even bigger than you were told in geography class), with hundreds if not thousands of diverse cultures.
 

In southern Ghana, Christianity is the most visible aspect of their culture, and it appears to dominate everyday life.  Most shops have a religious name like “God is Great Hair Salon” and “Believing in God Watch Repair Shop.”  A lot of Ghanaians asked me if I went to church, and I always said no, provoking a puzzled look on their faces and a question of “Why not?"  And like in Sierra Leone, most buses have a message written on them.  A few days ago, I observed two buses side by side stuck in traffic with me.  The bus in the left lane declared the “Blood of Jesus” and the bus in the right lane proclaimed “Sweet Jesus.”  Because of the supposed power of His name, I wonder which bus Jesus chose to escape the congestion first.  
 

As in other African countries, language plays an important role in Ghanaian culture.  In addition to their tribal languages of Twi, Ga, and Hausa (and a few others in northern Ghana), almost everyone speaks English fluently.  However, you might think the Canadians colonized the country instead of the British because a lot of people say the word “aye” at the end of almost every sentence, like “I’m making it nice, aye” and “Safe journey, aye.”  Also, when talking about a future event, Ghanaians like to say that it is “right around the corner.”  
 

Finally, Ghanaians say “By all means.”  It’s a fitting phrase for a country of 18 million people whose citizens are surviving by all means in a sea of poverty.  Despite having more wealth than almost all West African countries, people are still struggling to make a decent living, and the government’s corruption and incompetence are only making the situation worse.  
 

Perhaps the most ingenious way of making a living in Ghana is the “Fantasy Coffin” business.  Let’s say you really like guns or your BMW or flying on Ghana Airways.  Why let these interests end at death?  For about $2,000, the elite of Ghana can have their coffins tailor made (pre-mortem, so the coffin is waiting for you when you die) to their desires, such as a giant .357 Magnum pistol, a small luxury car, or a Ghana Airways DC-10.  The coffins are made out of wood and are carved and painted in great detail.  These things are amazing.  Trust me, I have pictures.
 

There are those who want to help Ghana succeed in more than just the “Fantasy Coffin” business.  President Bill Clinton and actor Kevin Spacey are two such people.  Arriving in Ghana together with much fanfare and security to kick off a new development project, I was surprised to learn that they would be staying in our hotel.  And not only in our hotel, but next door to the IMF chalet.  So naturally, I wanted to meet them both.  On the first night, I encountered Clinton at the Ghanaian Village restaurant having a drink with his staff.  I attempted to meet him, but was intercepted by his Secret Service guys.  The next day, I noticed Kevin Spacey walking parallel with me, and lucky me, the two sidewalks we were on were about to merge.  Even though I was in my swimming trucks, I thought he might be willing to talk to me about opportunities in Hollywood.  But no, he only started walking faster, and by the time the two sidewalks merged, he had left me in the dust.
 

Even though I didn’t get to schmooze with a two-time Oscar winner and a former U.S. President, I did have a visit from a bright shining star of a different sort---my girlfriend Lucy Macauley, who flew down from Freetown, Sierra Leone.  Whether it was wandering through western Ghana or just walking through the streets of Accra, for five days she made every moment special.  Sierra Leone was the last place on earth I ever expected to meet my better half, but life always has its surprises.  Folks, I am now sufficiently surprised (but in a good way).  
 

As I say in every mass email, Africa is such an awesome place.  I cannot describe everything that happened while I was in Ghana, but I would say that this third trip was the most rewarding, fun, and NC-17 rated time I’ve had in Africa so far.  
 

On to Malaysia!